30 January 2007 — Stockholm…We returned from the Ice Hotel in Sweden’s Lapland yesterday exhausted yet invigorated.  The frozen moments we shared at this magical place were surreal and wondrous in a way that words can barely convey. The above is a photo of the top of the world where the moon and the sun hung in harmony just over the horizon .  We glided across the frozen Torne River at top speed and into the Arctic Circle on a dogsled. 

We spent out first afternoon checking out the Art Suites, carefully crafted and sculpted individual palaces created by artists from all over the world (have to check out the Ice Hotel’s strict photo publication policy, but will try to follow up with some shots.). We also visited the Absolut Icebar and had a few mixed vodka drinks in ice-cube glasses. Our dinner at the Ice Hotel restaurant was good, but such tiny noveau portions that we had to have  four courses just to be satisfied. The service was spotty and the bill large. We went back to the changing rooms and dressed down to our long skivvies to conquer the elements in our ice room. We slipped into our thermal sleeping bags and in ten minutes were asleep.  We awoke at our usual 5 a.m., turned and looked at each other and immediately burst out laughing—we had survived a night in an freakin’ igloo! And, we got the diplomas to prove it…Really, sleeping in -5 C was spectacularly comfortable. I had my ever-present tin of bag balm hidden inside my sleeping bag and in the morning when I opened it to glaze my lips, liquid poured out. That is how warm it was. 

 At the breakfast buffet, all the American went for the eggs, sausage, bacon and potatoes.  I did have some eggs (for protein), but stuck with the Europeans and had dried and fresh fruits, nuts and yoghurt. Coffee was flowing freely and we really needed it.  We spent the morning on a dogsled adventure, sent off by two German lesbian newlyweds.  We rode over hill and yon, pulled by howling and very willing four-legged accomplices who got us to our destination–a Saami wigwam–for coffee and cardamon buns. Then back on the sled–two gay guys from London, us and a driver–back to the hotel. My legs had never been spread as wide for as long!

 We checked into our warm accommodations, a lovely little house-like building with about 8 rooms per.  The space with decked out with all amenities and simple yet luxurious Scandinavian furniture and fixtures, including a Grundig flat screen, faux marble flooring, a bathroom with a simulated ice cube shower, elderflower soaps and shampoo, a comfortable –and warm–bed with down duvets and plenty of storage space: and IKEA-esque wardrobe, lots of drawers, a desk, sleek bucket chairs like only the Scandinavians know how to make. 

 Our second night, we ate at the Old Homstead Restaurant, a cozy, intimate joint with comfort food and comfortable prices.  It was a frigid15 minute treck there down and ice-covered highway in the middle of nowhere, but well worth it.  The food was spectacular, plentiful and we only had starters and a main course……had our first taste of reindeer & char roe, which on the tongue was like a mix between prosciutto and lox.  Excellent! 

 We slept like logs inthe warm hotel, had another roundof breakfast buffet, packed and met new friends while sitting in the lounge  waiting fro our bus to the Kiruna Aiport, where we actually boarded the plane formthe frozen tarmac.  While waiting for our place, we had warm dishes of pasts and glasses of Nordic  beer, good food for good money!

And then, off we flew for only an hour and tewney. Poof–back in Stockholm. Leaving tomrrow to Newark. It’s been lovely….